One issue to look out for when using DDC commands to adjust brightness is that a certain number of monitors store DDC settings on fragile EEPROM which may a capacity for as low as 100,000 writes (better/modern monitors store DDC settings in NAND which for DDC storage purposes has no write limits). DDC auto adjustment can brick your monitor This is one case where if you have a very bright monitor and sensitive eyes, it makes sense to calibrate the monitor at 35% brightness even if it’s 50 cd/m2 over your target.įollowing Panaitiu’s advice about software dimming is not the only way Lunar can burn out your monitor. Quick aside: setting a monitor below 30% brightness can cause flickering and eye strain as often monitors use pulse-width modulation ( PMW) to show very low brightness. When the short-term requirement for high brightness is gone set the hardware controls in your monitor back to 36% to 70% (what mine are at). if occasionally you need a really bright display (curtains open and you need to work in sunglight), manually turn the brightness up in hardware (no need to recalibrate your monitor for up to a 30% boost, you shouldn’t be doing sensitive colour work in an environment that bright).use software dimming to turn the monitor down at night. calibrate your monitor at the brightness you’d like to use + 6 cd/m2.The right way to do software dimming is to Running cool (lower backlight) also helps prevent the other internal components from overheating and burning out. By setting hardware brightness at less than one half to one third of maximum, backlight life is quadrupled. Normally a new monitor at full brightness can attain 300 cd/m2 to 600 cd/m2 (this latter figure is already into HDR territory). This means I run my monitors at anywhere between 130 cd/m2 to 170 cd/m2. The 6 cd/m2 extra allows colour calibration software some leeway for whites and greys, calibrating a monitor running with no headroom can result in subpar colour calibration accuracy. The reason is that I always set my monitors in hardware to just 4-10 cd/m2 higher brightness than required. As you no doubt noticed I still have one (of two) HP LP3065 going strong after sixteen years. No, that’s a great way to burn out your monitor in two or three years. You have to manually set the monitor’s brightness and contrast (using the monitor physical buttons) to the highest possible values that look good for your monitor. The right way to do software dimmingĪlin Panaitiu the programmer behind Lunar makes some terrible recommendations on how to manage software dimming: Lunar does not control blue light but leans on Apple’s own Night Shift, which unfortunately cannot be tuned as finely as Displays. What’s nice about Displays is that one can easily modify both the brightness and the blue reduction, depending on changes to ambient light or if one is doing colour-sensitive work. If you would prefer a simpler setup with software dimming and built-in blue light dimming at night, Jibapps Displays works very well. This is a great improvement, as it saves you from burning out your monitor via software dimming. It does not work on my 16 year old (but still splendid) HP LP3065 or a 10 year old Dell U2412M. DDC monitor dimming does work on my recent HP Z32, HP U32 and BenQ PD3200U monitors. When I say directly, this means on most modern monitors via DDC, not software dimming. What Lunar does which is special is allow the monitor brightness keys to directly change the brightness on external monitors. Here are its four main preference screens: All three Lunar Preference windows opened from Menu Bar Lunar Advanced Preferences Lunar HDR Preferences Lunar is an overwhelmingly complex monitor management tools for macOS and M1 computers in particular.
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